Day Twenty One: On The Road Again: Colorado, Utah

So this is weird. Due to lack of internet connection the last few days, I’m writing about Sunday on Wednesday. And I’m three days behind. And today is going to be a long driving day so it’s not like I’ve got time to kill, or even a decent connection now but here we go.

Waking up on Easter morning was a very “on your own, far away from home, there doesn’t seem to be a friend when you’re alone” kind of feeling (Yes, it’s a Partridge Family lyric, you wanna make something of it?) It may have been the first time on the trip I really felt lonely and wished I was somewhere else. As previously mentioned, I’m not particularly religious, but Easter has always meant family to me: baskets and brunches and just spending time together. So it was weird to be in a sterile hotel room with no plans to see anyone all day. But such is the life of an intrepid explorer. There were many miles to cover before nightfall, so after a holiday pig’s ear for Annie,  it was time to hop in Marigold and roll on out of Colorado.

FullSizeRender (293) - Copy.         FullSizeRender - Copy (107)

Much of the day was spent driving through the Rockies. The scenery was spectacular, although neither Marigold nor I much cared for the constant ups and downs of the highway. Also it was cold. And kind of gray. And even though I had the campervannie washed yesterday, the windshield was already bugging up again. I was in a mood.

FullSizeRender (296) - Copy

I will say, that other than the Rockies looming over everything, the suburbs of Denver could easily pass for the suburbs of Northern Virginia. Very similar architecture, housing styles, big box stores, etc. . . It was the most “at home” I had felt in weeks. Also of note, and I assume this has something to do with the altitude, when I refilled my gas tank halfway through the Rockies, it took the needle like fifteen minutes to make it’s way back to F.

The audio book I was listening to made reference to the Easter Parade in New York City (do they still do that?), and it reminded me of my other favorite Easter tradition, watching the Fred Astaire/Judy Garland movie of the same name. I’d randomly discovered it on TV at my grandparent’s as a kid, and have watched it every year since. I was sad again.  Looking for any sort of excitement, I noticed a sign for a wildlife overlook and pulled off the highway into a charming little mountain town called Georgetown. Parts of Georgetown looked as historic and arty as the one I know from back home, but it definitely lacked the traffic issues.

FullSizeRender (294) - Copy.         FullSizeRender (295) - Copy

It also had a stunning waterfront.

FullSizeRender - Copy (115).         FullSizeRender (292) - Copy

But unlike Georgetown DC, Georgetown CO isn’t known for its elephants and donkeys. No, this town is all about the sheep. Bighorn Sheep – Colorado’s state animal. And there was a viewing station set up with fancy binoculars trained on this one particular mountain side where the sheep were apparently paid to promenade about for the amusement of silly tourists. Only I guess because it was Easter Sunday, they were all off duty, so what I saw was bupkiss. And it was cold and windy, and there was only so long I was going to stand there like an idiot staring at an empty mountain. So here’s the mountain. Maybe those of you who excelled at interpreting the Colorado City street sign can play “Where’s Sheepdo?” with better success.

FullSizeRender (289) - Copy.         FullSizeRender (291) - Copy

About fifty miles down the road, just outside of Vail, I finally saw three bighorn sheep all but standing on the highway. Alas, I was on the phone with my Dad and couldn’t get a photo. Just picture sheep with twirly antlers.

The scenery seemed to change almost constantly. One minute it’s towering snowcapped peaks, the next you’re driving THROUGH a mountain, then it’s yellow Texas-style limestone only with tall skinny pines, and then rolling red rock sandstone.

FullSizeRender (290) - Copy.         FullSizeRender - Copy (112)

FullSizeRender - Copy (114)

And FINALLY, you’re leaving colorful Colorado and heading on into Utah.

FullSizeRender (286) - Copy.         FullSizeRender (287) - Copy

Utah seems flatter, a little greener (at first) and with rolling plains leading to the La Salle mountains in the SouthWest. It seems deserted on the highway? Perhaps because it’s Easter Sunday and this is a more religious state? Or because there’s nothing here? Rock formations start to crop up, some look like wrinkled elephants flomped down upon the earth.

And FINALLY, FINALLY. . .  we came to a stop in Moab, Utah. During my down time in Colorado Springs, I had researched camping in Arches National Park and Dead Horse Point State Park – the two places we planned to spend the bulk of our time. And both were bursting at the seams full. I wasn’t super worried as I had read that there were an abundance of other BLM (Bureau of Land Management) areas with camping spots in the surrounding area. And this time my poor planning skills paid off. Instead of a dry, dusty desert campsite like we would have had in either of the parks, we pulled right in to a GORGEOUS spot right on the Colorado River with cool red rock formations towering all around us!

FullSizeRender - Copy (113)FullSizeRender - Copy (111)FullSizeRender (282) - Copy

The wind was finally absent, we had made good time on the road, and in a setting so perfect, it was time to do some REAL camping! I cranked up the stove for another Spaghettios feast, made an ACTUAL fire in the fire pit, and found the perfect way to celebrate Easter on the road . . . Reeses Peanut Butter Egg Smores. People I am NOT joking-they are the bomb! You need these in your life. Happy Easter/Passover/Spring to you all (a bit belated).

FullSizeRender (283) - CopyFullSizeRender (284) - CopyFullSizeRender (285) - Copy

Day Twenty: Pressing Pause: Colorado (Colorado Springs)

Woke up still feeling exhausted. Even with a twelve o’clock checkout time I was struggling to get it together to get back on the road. And I was facing a long drive day. Several folks had mentioned recently that I shoulda (coulda woulda) built in some rest days. It seemed like my body was telling me that now would be a good time to do just that. So, with no small sense of guilt and frustration because I had JUST gotten back on schedule after the Texas detour, and now I was going to have to cross ANOTHER item off my list, I called a Time Out, and extended my stay for one more night at the Colorado Springs Residence Inn.

Enjoyed a hearty breakfast . . .

FullSizeRender (277) - Copy

. . . and later Annie and I recharged at lunch with some deliciously nourishing Chicken Soup for the Terrier Soul . . .

IMG_0951

Still later in the afternoon, my faithful companion was getting restless, so I decided to take her for a longer walk at Garden of the Gods. This MAY have been a mistake. The place was PACKED. The two parking lots that accessed the trail I wanted to hike were completely full, and it was hard to navigate the one-way road that winds through the park because so many folks had pulled over at unauthorized stops for photo taking. Finally we parked at the Visitors Center and walked across the busy highway to get to a different trail that was filled with bicycles swarming and weaving about.  And then I started to realize that it wasn’t just the non-stop pace of the previous nineteen days that was leaving me so tired – it’s the altitude stupid. I was winded before we even started the walk, just going into the Visitors Center to use the restroom. If we hadn’t driven ten miles to get there, and if it weren’t for Annie needing to stretch her paws, I probably would have given up at that point! I was wiped. I don’t think I’ve stopped being wiped the whole time I’ve been here. I’m almost 7,000 feet above sea level and my body does NOT like it! We did a snail’s pace hike for about an hour and I made a failed attempt to do a smoochie face selfie in front of the kissing camels and then I was spent.

FullSizeRender (276) - Copy          FullSizeRender (274) - Copy

FullSizeRender - Copy (109)

It did remind me of a funny story I forgot to put in yesterday’s blog though. So, when I first arrived at Garden of the Gods, I parked Marigold in the Visitors Center, and got out to meet Carol. For convenience sake we used her car to travel around the park. Later on, when we decided to drive over to the Manitou Cliff Dwellings, I asked in the “Trading Post” how late I could leave my van at the Visitor Center. I was assured 9pm. No problem. We toured the dwellings and returned to the parking lot around 5:30pm. Only to find the lot COMPLETLY devoid of vehicles other than the Campervannie and locked gates blocking both entrances. (And a sign saying “These gates close at 5pm-you’d really be an idiot to leave your car here past that” (or words to that effect.) PANIC!!! What was I going to do? Leave the van overnight? Carol was planning on leaving town after dinner so how would I get back there? On Carol’s suggestion I climbed under the gate, got in the van, and drove around the lot looking for hidden exits. Nada. I drove close to the gate to see if it might open automatically. Negatory. I was out of options when Carol said “Hey, what’s that slip of paper under your windshield wiper?”  Oh that? Nothing? THAT’S JUST A PIECE OF PAPER SAYING ‘PSSST-SOUTH GATE IS ONLY FAKE LOCKED YOU CAN TOTALLY GET OUT THAT WAY MORON!’ (or words to that effect). So the day was saved once again.

Getting back to the present, after our pathetic walk attempt at GotG, I decided to swing by the nearby historic district of Old Colorado City. Old Colorado City was originally established in 1859 to serve as a supply center for all the gold prospectors crying “Pike’s Peak or Bust!” and racing to find riches in them thar hills. It was also established as the first capital of the territory of Colorado. However, when they assembled to have a legislative meeting, they found the log cabin which had been provided for them (pictured below) hopelessly inadequate, and said “Screw it, let’s go to Denver” (or words to that effect). Now it’s a cute little area in Colorado Springs with historic buildings filled with artsy shops and tasty restaurants. It also has a central park with THE seediest portapotties I’ve ever been in. Seriously, there was a soiled teddy bear floating in one.

FullSizeRender (281) - Copy.         FullSizeRender (278) - Copy

FullSizeRender (280) - Copy

I would also be greatly appreciative if anyone can translate the sentence on the top part of this sign.

FullSizeRender (279) - Copy

Anyhow, that shopping stroll took the last of the life from me. I was too light-headed to even focus on making a purchase (other than a pig’s ear for Annie), so we returned to the hotel (with a pizza) for an evening of utter laziness and lounging.

Day Nineteen: Rocky Mountain High: New Mexico, Colorado

It was cold. Mega cold. So cold that I woke up in the middle of the night to find Annie shivering and covered her in fleeces. So cold that when I woke up a second time she was curled around my head for warmth, so I brought her into the sleeping bag. Cold. But the wind had died down by the time the sun came up and the campground was deserted and it was stunningly gorgeous-the kind of morning that makes you feel glad to be alive. So glad that I boiled some water for some oatmeal and busted out my fancy toast maker (burning my finger in the process). Annie and I explored the area a bit more, climbed on some rocks, and, if you’re not sick of gorge pictures yet, discovered the spot where the Red River and Rio Grande converge.

FullSizeRender - Copy (101).         FullSizeRender (251) - Copy

And then once again it was time to saddle up Marigold and hit the trail. It’s funny how living on the road makes you lose all sense of time or date. I was vaguely aware that it was Easter weekend from being on social media, but, and not being an overly religious person myself, was still shocked to see a parade of twenty or so people walking along the side of the highway in the middle of nowhere New Mexican Plains, their leader carrying a cross with Jesus nailed upon it. They were headed to a tiny church I had just passed (and sensibly wearing hi-visibility jackets, which, while taking away from the striking visual nature of their message, was still a solid idea, even if there was only one other car on the road). Other than that, the high plains were fairly flat and empty, the occasional ranch sign or smattering of cows the only thing to break the monotony. But all that was about to change as we crossed the border into . . .

FullSizeRender (253) - Copy

Yes, my windshield is in desperate need of cleaning, no it’s not that colorful (yet) even with a little photo enhancement. The first thing I noticed about Colorado is that it almost immediately gets a lot more Western feeling architecturally than New Mexico. Bye bye adobe and hello wooden storefronts and saloons. The second thing I noticed was that . . . they care about ditches??

FullSizeRender (252) - Copy.         FullSizeRender - Copy (102)

This is the San Luis People’s Ditch-the Oldest Continuously Used Ditch in Colorado! Dug by hand by pioneer settlers! Further down on the plaque it notes “Colorado’s Greatness is Built Upon Irrigation.” Yay irrigation! And to think this wasn’t even on my original itinerary!

Fresh off that excitement, we soon rolled in to Colorado’s Oldest Town! I know this because it’s spelled out in rocks on the side of a hill . . .

FullSizeRender (254) - Copy

Further on we passed what was not labeled as such, but may well be, Colorado’s oldest Safeway grocery store, as they apparently offer parking for Model T’s.

FullSizeRender (255) - Copy

Outside of Walsenburg Colorado, we passed a clever marketing strategy for a local artist (Yes, I’ve “liked” him.)

FullSizeRender (256) - Copy

But the main excitement for today was going to be meeting up with another familiar face- Carol Roberts! Carol was one of my Mom’s dearest friends, who has since retired to Colorado to be closer to her family. She’s taken many solo adventures of her own, including 3 weeks following the Lewis and Clark Trail, and has been an invaluable source of inspiration and advice for my own journey. And yesterday she drove about two hours to meet us and provide just the balm these weary travelers needed (and I don’t even mean the homemade chicken soup she brought us!)

FullSizeRender - Copy (103).         FullSizeRender (272) - Copy

We met in Colorado Springs at Garden of the Gods, a really cool park with amazing red rock formations popping up out of the ground, and the stunning snow capped Rocky Mountains in the distance. The area was an important spot for many Native American tribes for centuries, but was “discovered’ by two surveyors in 1859. The first, M.S. Beach, suggested it would be “a capital place for a beer garden,” but his friend, Rufus Cable, replied “Beer Garden! Why it is a fit place for the gods to assemble, we will call it Garden of the Gods!” Interestingly, no alcohol of any kind is now permitted in the park.

FullSizeRender (260) - CopyFullSizeRender (262) - CopyFullSizeRender - Copy (104)

This formation is called “Kissing Camels”

FullSizeRender (263) - Copy

See the ripple pattern in the rock? Those ripples indicate the rock once lay at the bottom of a streambed, but it has now been pushed into a vertical position.

FullSizeRender (258) - Copy

Signature rock has hundreds of dates and initials carved into it, some of which have been dated back to the 1800s.

FullSizeRender (259) - Copy

Balance Rock is the most popular spot for pictures. Back before this area was a public park, one enterprising gentleman, Paul Goerke, purchased the land surrounding just this rock and charged tourists 25 cents a pop for photo ops. He even kept handy a pack of burros which folks could pose upon. As time went on and technology advanced, people started toting their own cameras around and didn’t need his services any longer. This didn’t stop old Paul though, he simply constructed a wooden fence and charged the twenty five cents for admission, and even set up a lunch counter nearby for additional revenue. The locals literally cheered in the streets when his land was eventually acquired by the park.

IMG_0839   FullSizeRender (273) - Copy   FullSizeRender (271) - Copy

Annie always has to take intrepid explorations to the next level.

FullSizeRender (261) - Copy

After a chilly hike through the park, Carol was kind enough to indulge me in a visit to another intriguing site nearby, the Manitou Cliff Dwellings. This location has been a tourist attraction since 1907, and purports to be preserved cliff homes of the ancient Anasazi Indians (like 1200 BC ancient), the forerunners of the Pueblo people I encountered in Taos and Santa Fe. But everything just looked a little too “perfect.” And there were homes representing several different time periods all lined up in a neat little row right next to each other.

FullSizeRender - Copy (106)          FullSizeRender (268) - Copy

Some Googling after the fact seems to reveal that these WERE at one point actual Anasazi homes, but they were discovered several hundred miles Southwest of here, in the Four Corners area, and were later shipped by railroad to Colorado Springs and reassembled as an attraction. It’s still pretty cool, and fascinating to see the tiny rooms they lived in built underneath a cliff ledge. Doors and windows were kept small so that they could easily have stones rolled in front of them to protect from attackers. The age of the ruins can be accurately dated by comparing rings in the wooden posts used for drying animal meat alongside the rings in nearby trees. Known years with certain stressors such as flood or drought will be recognizable in the rings, and the earlier dates determined from there.

One of my favorite things about the site is that both people and pets alike are permitted to wander and explore anywhere, all throughout the ruins.

FullSizeRender (266) - Copy.         FullSizeRender (265) - Copy

FullSizeRender (267) - Copy

And not just through the ruins, but through the gift shop and museum! They had a nice refreshing bowl of water set out for pups, and . . . hold up a minute . . . umm . . . no Annie, I don’t think that bin of lucky rabbit’s feet was intended as an activity station for you!

FullSizeRender - Copy (105).         FullSizeRender - Copy (108)

One thing I learned fairly quickly is that altitude sickness is no joke. I was winded even more easily than normal considering we were walking on primarily flat terrain, and both Annie and I needed frequent rehydration (which Carol never let us forget!) By the end of the day I was exhausted. Carol to the rescue yet again! She treated me to an excellent meal at a funky little place called Shuga’s and then put Annie and me up in a Residence Inn for one of our last scheduled indulgences in clean sheets and hot showers. It was such a fun day, and in a way almost felt like my mom was there, as Carol treated me like her own daughter and went along with all my silly ideas just like Mom would have. I barely had time to root through the goody bag she left me with before drifting off to dreamland.

FullSizeRender (270) - Copy

Day 18: New Mexico is GORGEus : New Mexico (Santa Fe, Wild Rivers Recreation Area)

Annie and I slept the sleep of the gods in Laurie’s luxurious Santa Fe retreat. Upon waking, she insisted on taking us for breakfast at a darling tea shop on the art mecca that is Canyon Road. Annie and I split a scone and some bacon, but I kept the Mexican Hot Chocolate all to myself.

FullSizeRender - Copy (98)

FullSizeRender (249) - Copy.         FullSizeRender (247) - Copy

While Laurie tried to navigate the broken parking lot pay machine, I spotted a nearby coin changer and saw my chance to get some needed quarters for laundry and parking meters. So I fed in a dollar and was rewarded with . . . a dollar. Coin. Well, that will be exceedingly useful. After that fiasco, I enjoyed the luxury of the passenger seat while Laurie gave us the grand tour of the older homes and grand estates of Santa Fe. Annie made several attempts to claim the driver’s seat, but was denied.

FullSizeRender (248) - Copy

All too soon we had to bid farewell to our hostess with the mostess and make one more foray into the heart of the city to tie up a few loose ends. Number One was an interesting phenomena I had heard much about, the Miraculous Staircase of the Loretto Chapel. As legend has it, when this small chapel was originally built carpenters could find no way to give access to the choir loft other than an ungainly ladder or a staircase that would take up too much square footage in the tiny space. So the Sisters of the Chapel made a special prayer to St. Joseph, Patron Saint of Carpenters, for assistance. Nine days later a man with a toolbox appeared on a donkey. He crafted an astounding double spiral staircase that required no support from either the walls or the center. An engineering marvel that is not fully understood to this day. And then he left, without leaving his name or accepting payment. Originally, the staircase didn’t even have railings, those were added later. Here I present you with both a scale rendering and selfie version, but it’s so much more impressive in person.

FullSizeRender (245) - Copy.         FullSizeRender (244) - Copy

By random, but fitting, chance I seem to be visiting a lot of sacred sites during Holy Week. I do like to be thematically matching. So I decided to pop by one more: San Miguel Mission, the oldest church structure in America, constructed in 1610 by the Tlaxcalan Indians.

FullSizeRender (243) - Copy.         FullSizeRender - Copy (99)

Alas, my time in Santa Fe was all too short, but I wanted to throw in a few more shots just to give you the artsy  flavor of the place.

FullSizeRender (242) - Copy.         FullSizeRender - Copy (100)

And an other #Elvissighting!

FullSizeRender (239) - Copy

And also, also . . . no need to make a separate trip to Walgreen’s AND the liquor store, in Santa Fe they’re one and the same!

FullSizeRender (240) - Copy

Finally there could be no more stalling, and it was back into Marigold and up north towards Taos (and beyond) again. I was headed for a particular destination, and, as luck would have it, there was no way to reach it without once again going down (or rather up) my arch nemesis road, the one that tried to kill me a few days ago. But this time I was ready for it. Annnnndddd . . . it turns out that the spot where I chickened out and U-turned last time was about 1/4 mile from the end of the scary part. So I could have totally made it to the hot springs. FORTUNE FAVORS THE BOLD! NOT THE U-TURNERS!

I found myself on the surprisingly flat high plains of Northern New Mexico. Headed to the spectacular Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, the seventh highest bridge in the country. My photo of the actual bridge is crapola compared to ones easily found via Google, but what Google won’t show you is HOW VERY VERY VERY VERY FLIPPING WINDY IT WAS!!

FullSizeRender (233) - CopyFullSizeRender (232) - CopyFullSizeRender (231) - Copy

FullSizeRender - Copy (95)

Seriously, there was a period when I couldn’t even get the van door shut it was so gusty! WHOOOOOOSH!

The wind was at our backs as we continued northwards to our (all but deserted) camping destination for the night: Wild Rivers Recreation Area. Not too shabby if I do say so myself.

FullSizeRender - Copy (94)          FullSizeRender (229) - Copy

Scenes around camp (where the wind continues to gust to 30 mph, and this van is rockin’, but feel free to come knockin’!)

FullSizeRender (227) - Copy.         FullSizeRender (238) - CopyFullSizeRender (235) - Copy.         FullSizeRender (237) - Copy

The highlight of dinner was some bizcochitos (New Mexico’s State Cookie)  and Annie got to try on the  fancy new St. Francis bling I purchased for her.

FullSizeRender - Copy (97).         FullSizeRender (230) - Copy

We hiked around a tiny bit, but the blustery winds and appearance of a strange vehicle soon drove us back into Marigold’s warm embrace where I’ve made a little shrine of my own to cheer us and look after us when we feel especially far from home. (My Mom painted the angel Christmas ornament and I just rediscovered it a few months ago).

FullSizeRender - Copy (96)

Next up: Colorado!

Day Seventeen: You Take The High Road… No Wait, I Will: New Mexico (Taos, Chimayo, Santa Fe)

Woke up feeling like crap balls. The cold is back and it brought a migraine with it. Even soaking in my trusty slipper tub and watching the cows graze only helped marginally. Jean, the lovely woman who owns the boxcar, graciously, and without even knowing of my plight, encouraged me to stay as long as I would like and even offered to let me spend an additional night at a reduced rate. Alas, duty called, so after a slightly extended snooze in – Marigold was loaded up and spinning her wheels: it was time to retrace our steps to Santa Fe.

After receiving several suggestions to do so, we chose to take the “High Road” between Taos and Santa Fe. It’s properly called the “High Road to Taos,” but we were being rebels and taking it backwards. Which meant reading all the Googled directions end to start. What could possibly go wrong? (Spoiler alert: Nothing did.)

Fairly quickly, the road starts winding through the mountains, and all of a sudden we’re treated to glimpses of tall skinny REAL pine trees and . . . what’s that . . . it couldn’t be. . . SNOW!

FullSizeRender - Copy (92).         FullSizeRender (224) - Copy

The road rolled on, passing through tiny little quirky towns where a resident would have a chain of gold painted bicycles lining their garden, or the sole restaurant would be called Sugar Nymphs. Soon we were back in the desert, which reminded me of a milestone I forgot to mention a few days back. Annie and I saw our second tumbleweed today! (The first was outside of White Sands Monument I believe). So cool!

FullSizeRender - Copy (88)

(Note: This photo was recreated  with another, non-tumbling tumbleweed. The official second tumbleweed tumbled too quickly for capture.)

Further down the road, at a scenic overlook, while I stopped to take in the sweeping panoramas. . .

FullSizeRender (214) - Copy          FullSizeRender (215) - Copy

Annie was doing . . . this . . .

FullSizeRender (216) - Copy

That’s right. She found a giant mound of dirt and enthusiastically set to woogling in it.

Did somebody mention dirt? Well, I think I did, and I’m not sure you’re ready for our next detour, brilliantly pointed out to me by a friend who shall be named later. Just outside of Santa Fe is El Santuario de Chimayo, or, as I prefer to call it, the Shrine of the Holy Dirt. All kidding aside, this small church, built in 1815, is the most visited Catholic pilgrimage site in the country, and is known as the American Lourdes. If I were to have visited visited on Friday, there would have been thousands with me, some having walked miles, and some carrying crosses.

FullSizeRender (209) - Copy          FullSizeRender - Copy (86)FullSizeRender (210) - Copy

The name of the town, Chimayo, refers to hot springs that were sacred to the local Pueblo Indians. As (one) legend has it, before the church was built, a group of priests were conducting some religious rites one Good Friday on a hill nearby. One of them saw a mysterious light in the distance, followed it, and found a cross half buried in the dirt. The cross was removed and carried in a procession to the nearest church, ten miles away. The next morning, the cross had mysteriously disappeared from the church and returned itself to its original locale. The foolish priests had to dig the darn thing up twice more before they got the message that it wasn’t going anywhere! So, since the Mohammad wouldn’t come to the mountain, they simply built a new church over the spot.

And here’s the best part. The hole where the cross was found is still there. And many believe that the dirt has magical healing powers! So for the last two centuries, folks have been coming to this spot and helping themselves to the dirt, and yet THE HOLE NEVER RUNS OUT OF DIRT! IT MAGICALLY REPLENISHES! (Please note: Step Doug bought me this exact same trowel from Amazon in case I needed to bury my poop while camping. Make of that what you will.)

FullSizeRender (219) - Copy

But, if you’re going to dig up some magic holy dirt and take it home with you to cure your migraines (hypothetically), well what are you going to put it in???

Holy Dirt Bags

HOLY DIRT BAGS OF COURSE!!! (Note: Holy Dirt Bags is going to be my new favorite interjection.)

I also bought a corndog (recurring theme) which I figure may have been somewhat prepared with the Holy Water they also have, so that’s gotta help knock out this cold right?

Our pilgrimage complete, it was on, at long last, to Santa Fe. Of course, by then it was late in the day, and there was no time for much more than a stroll around the plaza (plazas don’t photograph well)

FullSizeRender (218) - Copy.         IMG_0601 (1)

Time was short as I had to make haste for a secret assignation. Annie and I were to be wined and dined and treated like the Queen and lady’s maid we are. By none other than the one and only Laurie W, out here in Santa Fe as well by total coincidence!

FullSizeRender (211) - Copy.         FullSizeRender - Copy (87)

FullSizeRender (213) - Copy

Laurie took me to Cafe Pasqual’s, an authentic New Mexican restaurant right off the plaza: the food was delicious, the atmosphere was adorable, and the Tres Leche cake was to die for. We had total fun and it was awesome to see and spend time with a familiar face. Afterwards, Laurie put us up in her dad’s gorgeous home with spectacular views of the sunset over the mountains and then the glittering lights of the city at night. Annie was allotted the master suite with aforementioned amazeballs views, king size bed, comfy lounging bed, and private courtyard. As was only fitting.

FullSizeRender - Copy (93).         FullSizeRender (226) - Copy

FullSizeRender (225) - Copy

Day Sixteen: Who Needs You I Got (New) Mexico : New Mexico (Taos)

Another New Mexico sunrise, another leisurely soak in my clawfoot tub. (Another morning spent evacuating approximately seven gallons of mucus from my head, before you get too jelly.) Acting on a tip from our Air B&B hostess, Annie and I went in search of a scenic hiking trail. Our progress was delayed somewhat, as it appeared one of the locals was moving house…literally…

FullSizeRender - Copy (79)

But once we arrived at our destination, boy did we hit the jackpot! It started out as standard issue New Mexican loveliness…

FullSizeRender (187) - CopyFullSizeRender (185) - Copy

. . . but turn a corner, and the next thing you know you’re being treated to jaw dropping views of the Rio Grande Gorge!!

FullSizeRender (188) - CopyFullSizeRender - Copy (82)FullSizeRender (186) - Copy

Yes, that’s a rushing river hundreds of feet down there, and yes, it’s the same one I nearly plunged to my death in the other day. Hikers can walk right to the edge of the precipice, even wander out on a rock overlooking it with a recalcitrant dog on a string, and take their chances at stumbling to a watery grave.

And all this beauty is not contained in some official park or designated recreational area, it’s just a random trail at the end of a random road that I never would have discovered on my own. Hiking along, not a care in the world, basking in the sunlight, and feeling like we could be miles from any signs of civilization Annie and I were thoroughly enjoying the morning.

FullSizeRender (199) - Copy.         FullSizeRender (197) - Copy

And then! What’s this?!?! DANGER DANGER!! Trouble detected ahead!! Three strange men approaching, locate the panic alarm and start plotting an escape route!!

FullSizeRender (198) - Copy

But wait… zoom in a little closer on that picture. Oh. I see. That massive stranger danger out here in the wilderness is just three regular dudes . . . two of them pushing baby carriages. That’s ABOUT as non-threatening as three strange dudes are gonna be. And apparently we’re not lost in the Amazon JUST yet.

A little further along we had another close encounter of the “looks downright terrifying at first but is actually quite harmless” kind. Annie apparently prefers her critters either furred or feathered as she didn’t even bat an eyelash at Stanley here. Props to any of my naturalist friends who can give a positive ID on that bad boy.

FullSizeRender - Copy (81)

Our next stop was one of the most famous buildings in Taos, as well as one of the most photographed and painted churches in the world. Built in the late 1700’s as a refuge against Comanche attacks, the San Francisco de Asis Mission Church has been artistically recreated by legends like Georgia O’Keefe and Ansel Adams… but I bet neither of them ever thought to do a selfie!

georgia.         Ansel

FullSizeRender (202) - Copy

Taos is a weirdly wonderful place. Where the unexpected can happen at any moment.

Where you can glance in to a coffee shop at 2:30 in the afternoon on a Monday and see two men waltzing together.

Where you can make sparkly denim happen.

FullSizeRender (207) - Copy

Where you can look down on your hike and find a mustachioed poo bag (unused).

FullSizeRender (193) - Copy

Or where the following can occur:

Late in the day I decided to stop for a cocktail (oh, and lunch) at Doc Martin’s Restaurant at Historic Taos Inn. As far as I can tell this Doc Martin is unrelated to either the clunky boot maker, or Donna Martin’s dad. But he WAS one of the founding figures of Taos, and after his death his wife turned their home into an inn.

FullSizeRender (204) - CopyFullSizeRender (206) - CopyFullSizeRender (205) - Copy

The eagle-eyed may have spotted my fancy new turkwaz earrings. They may have been a smidge out of budget, but within five minutes of purchasing and donning them I was flirted with by a gentlemen. Now Mamood has a good 20 years on me and not his ENTIRE allotment of teeth, but he was quite nattily dressed and a business owner, and he LOVED my Zuni earrings. SO much so that he had to keep touching them. And then my face. But he did seem quite enamored with me in my current boxcar/van livin’ state of style, so there’s that.

And then…

I was admiring the two dogs seated with a couple at the table next to me when something caught my eye. “Excuse me, (I say) is your dog’s collar the Maryland flag?” “Why yes it is!” “How cool, I’m from Virginia!” … and it continues until I discover that the woman (Pat) is from Hamilton Virginia which is literally two towns over from my town, and she teaches pottery classes like a mile from my house! In fricking Taos! They were kind enough to invite Annie and I to join them (and Lucy and T-Bone) for drinks and swapping stories. In the course of conversation I mention my current lack of employment status, my past experience in writing, editing, and marketing, and my desire to pursue same going forward. And then it turns out that Greg (the dude) has a brother-in-law who does freelance work in the same field, in a town nearby to mine, and occasionally places other folks in such positions. So I scored a name and an e-mail address for a possible job contact when I return! Result! They were lovely, fun people (with lovely, sweet rescue dogs), and I just had the best time chatting with them. East Coast represent!

FullSizeRender - Copy (85)

Terrible stealth shot of Greg and T-Bone when I just wanted a cute dog pic and hadn’t met them yet.